By Audra Labert (she/hers) | CDTC Comms Manager
From a distance, the structure appeared as a tiny square sitting atop an outstretched mountain reef. Patrol Mountain Lookout is at the peak of Patrol Mountain in the Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex in Montana, straddling the borders of the Scapegoat and Bob Marshall Wilderness Areas. The trail to the top is approximately a seven-mile round trip, offering one of the most expansive views from the Rocky Mountain Front.
From the Straight Creek Trailhead, the route started as a pleasant meander along Straight Creek. This section of trail is a popular off-ramp for Northbound thru-hikers who are resupplying before traveling through the rest of “The Bob.” It’s also known to visitors who want extensive views without extensive mileage.
Occasional glimpses of the lookout could be seen early on. The trail occasionally bumped against the rushing creek until the crossing, about half a mile from the trailhead. There were no reliable ways to hop across without getting wet feet. Early in the season or after significant rains, the water is fast, high, and full of debris, so trek poles were an advantage. Pro tip: Take water shoes and stash them on the other side for the return crossing.
The elevation gain was minimal to this point, and then the actual hike began. From Straight Creek, the ascent was 2,800 ft over three-and-a-quarter miles. As the trail wound up switchbacks and wove in and out of trees, a view of the Scapegoat Wilderness came into view. The scene was a mosaic of live and burned forest, revealing part of the fire footprint of the area. Much of the Scapegoat Wilderness had been affected by fire in the last 20 years. In 2006, the Cigarette Fire burned in the adjacent area, while six years later, in 2012, the Elbow Pass Fire made its mark. Even in the shadow of a fire lookout, fires are an ever-present concern.
The climb to the lookout wound a slow, steep path toward 7,936 feet. After a few miles of alternating back and forth, the views reappeared around cliffy turns. Honeymoon Basin emerged like a lavish, green amphitheater rimmed by rocky crags. The basin offered wind protection, a good lunch or rest spot, and, for some, a final destination. Wolverines have occasionally been spotted on the high slopes. It was so serene and beautiful that one might rethink the remaining climb to spend the afternoon with the birds and alpine flowers instead.
The last push to the lookout from Honeymoon Basin did not disappoint. From the saddle, the peaks of the Bob Marshall Wilderness emerged like waves in a sea and spread to the north, west, and south from the Continental Divide. Once at the top, if it’s summer, there’s a good chance of chatting with the resident fire lookout, Samara Chapman Duffey.
Duffey, also known simply as Sam, has been a fixture at the Patrol Mountain Lookout since her first summer in 1997, and she took only one year off to stand post at the nearby Prairie Reef Lookout. Sam talked through each named peak in view and gave some history of the lookout and fires. She noted that Wilderness fires in the area are most often caused by lightning strikes versus the human-caused ignitions that tend to occur near campgrounds and roads.
“Of course, I have also come across my fair share of abandoned campfires while out hiking,” Sam added.
Patrol Mountain Lookout was originally built in the 1920s as a cupola-style structure but was rebuilt to the existing flat-cab style in 1962. The only period the lookout was left unoccupied was during the late 1970s to mid-1980s. Then, in 1988, while legendary wildfires raged in Yellowstone National Park, the Canyon Creek, and the Gates Park Fires blazed in The Bob. Since these catastrophic burns, Patrol Lookout has been staffed every season by the U.S. Forest Service.
The lookout was a quaint, one-room structure composed mainly of windows to maximize the view. Around the edges of the outside were thick cables attached to steel anchors that keep the little building from being blown off the mountain. Sam pointed out the lightning rod installed to make the structure more resilient to a strike, which happened a few times over the years. When there’s a storm, Chapman gets a front-row seat.
Although wildland fire is a significant concern throughout the West, it’s almost surprising that the profession of Fire Lookout has stood the test of time. Yet, despite all the modern technology available, having eyes on the ground is still the most effective way to spot wilderness fires. Somewhere out there, people still live in towers for part of the year to guard against ravaging blazes.
On average, Patrol Mountain Lookout sees around 70-90 visitors per season—and that number has grown in the past few years. Increasing forest visitors combined with the prevalence of human-caused fires may carry risks. In addition to extreme wildfires being propelled by a changing climate, human-caused ignition now accounts for nearly 85% of all wildland fires across the Nation*. As the effects of climate change continue to unfold, it’s clear that in addition to early detection, prevention of human-caused fire remains critical to mitigating catastrophic wildfires.
*Wildfire Causes and Evaluations (U.S. National Park Service) National Parks Service, nps.gov/articles/wildfire-causes-and-evaluation.htm. April 5, 2023
Header photo credit: Zack Kephart.
