By Eddie “Bard” Janicki

When I thru-hiked the CDT in 2020, I was pleasantly surprised by the beauty and remoteness I found in the landscapes of New Mexico. This section, from Grants to Cuba, sticks out to me because it had very diverse landscapes and though it starts and ends in towns, felt very remote. Day one and two are hilly forest hiking in the Mt Taylor (Tsoodził) Wilderness. Day three brought dirt farm roads and lots of cows. Day four felt like true desert hiking coming down off a high plateau into the flat desert, and day five held a combination of things, involving one of the steepest climbs I experienced on the CDT in New Mexico – with a rewarding view once I reached the top of the cliff.

Length: 104 miles

CDT Miles: 525 – 629

Logistics

This section is roughly 100 miles so it is a good number to break up into a week or more depending on your comfort and fitness. Because I was pushing miles for my thru-hike, I did it in five days. Water is very scarce here so plan accordingly. The Guthook Guides app is a good option for planning for water sources along your way, but because of seasonal variability and safety, I left Grants with 9 Liters of water capacity – by far the most I had ever hiked with.

The CDT goes right through the towns of Grants and Cuba so the start and endpoints involve some road walking, as is common throughout the whole CDT. But as a section hiker you could easily skip the road at the beginning. Instead of starting from the town of Grants, I would recommend starting at the CDT Trailhead in the Cibola National Forest on NM-547 (Lobo Canyon Rd). This is 4 miles north of town. Then at the end of this section, you’ll finish at NM-197 and getting a ride will save you the 5 mile road walk into the town of Cuba.

Gear List

Though I pack light, I would highly suggest being prepared for all weather – from rain, to frost, to hail or snow – even during the summer months. I hiked through New Mexico in the late spring and was happy to have all my layers when temperatures got below freezing at night.

• Backpack
• 0- 15℉ sleeping bag
• Sleeping pad – foam or inflatable
• Inflatable pillow
• Tent
• Stove, gas, fuel, and lighters
• Spoon
• Water filter – I use a Sawyer Squeeze
• Clothes – shirt, shorts, socks, shoes, sun glasses, hat, warm and water proof outer layers, etc.
• Wool hat & gloves, sun hat
• Electronics – External battery, headlamp, etc.
• First aid kit
• Journal and pen
• Toilet paper and spade
• Light camp shoes

Food

Some of my favorites for the trail:

• Ramen
• Tuna packets
• Peanut Butter
• Annie’s White Cheddar Mac n’ Cheese
• Freeze-dried camping meals
• Clif Bars
• Snickers
• Instant coffee
• Bag for bear hang
• Water, water, water

Navigation

I used Guthook’s CDT guide. For this section specifically, you just need the New Mexico guide. It’s worthwhile having a backup map given the variability of signage and in case your phone dies. 

Wildlife

On this section I saw javelinas, rattlesnakes, coyotes, cows, and lizards! Some people might be surprised to find black bears in New Mexico, but they are around. In addition to keeping your food critter-proof, don’t forget to keep it bear safe.

Highlights along the route

This section was one of my favorites on the entire CDT because it epitomized my experience in New Mexico. I experienced beautiful forest mountain hiking one day in the Mt. Taylor (Tsoodził) Wilderness, while the next day I was on the edge of a high plateau with incredible landscape views of the desert before me. After hiking across the desert, the trail climbs up and down through scrub juniper and cactus, hugging the perimeter of these high desert mesas. Coyotes yipping in the night to put you to sleep. This was REAL desert hiking.

Notes from my journal on trail: 

May 9, 2020:

Today I got out of the motel around 10:30am. It was a 6 mile road walk out of town to the CDT Trailhead in the Cibola National Forest on NM-547. Once there, I got on trail and did another 7 miles, but had to stop earlier in the day than I would have liked to because of chafing, which was kind of frustrating. But that’s the trail for you, there’s always new obstacles showing up to try and beat you down. Other than that it was a pretty good day, I saw a few other people on trail since it’s Saturday. I am camped about 4 miles south of Tsoodził (Mt Taylor). Water is really scarce. I left Grants with 9 Liters. 13 miles today.

May 10, 2020:

Today I was up at 6am and hiking by 7am. The whole day was in cool forest terrain around Tsoodził (Mt Taylor). The trail went through some burn areas as well. At 6pm I got to a cattle trough, filtered 2 liters and hiked another mile then set up camp for the night. 22 miles today. 

May 11, 2020:

Today when I woke up it was raining. It wasn’t too heavy though and it let up, so I was hiking by 7:25am. The first 15 miles of the day were on dirt road through free range cattle land. It stayed overcast all morning and I heard thunder a few times. When I stopped for lunch, it started raining, so I waited it out under a juniper tree. After lunch, the trail left the road and wove through forest on a high plateau. 24 miles today.

 May 12, 2020:

I started hiking early along the plateau and reached the edge of it around 7:30am. I looked out on the most stunning view of New Mexico so far. The whole desert plain before me, with rocky structures and peaks sparsely shooting up out of nowhere. I hiked down and reached my first water source of the day, a relatively clear spring water basin covered by sheet metal. Then, hiking across seemingly endless desert plains. In the afternoon I reached a tire with a well water valve, it was the coldest clearest water on trail yet. Rejoice. After that point, it was back up into rocky, sandy mesas, along the perimeters with more amazing views of the desert. The best day on trail yet, but hot. 23 miles today.

May 13, 2020:

Today was exciting waking up knowing that I would be in town that night if I put in the work. I was hiking by 6:45am. It was more hiking along the plateau edges. Then ranch cattle fields in the afternoon that led to the steepest climb on the trail thus far. It was 1000 ft up rock and rebar stairs and tough scrambling. At the top I was exhausted, but relieved, because it was now just 7 miles downhill to the highway. 24 miles today.

Eddie Janicki is an avid outdoorsman who enjoys hiking, skiing, hunting, mountain biking, running, and more. When not on trail you can find him at home in Seattle playing guitar and spending time with family.