by Carey “Beerman” Kish, 2024 CDTC Trail Ambassador
New Mexico. The Land of Enchantment. Mountains and desert, mesas and canyons, forests and grasslands, bluffs and badlands. The Continental Divide Trail threads a 777-mile route through this extraordinary landscape from the Crazy Cook Monument on the border with Mexico in the “bootheel” to the high peaks of the San Juan Mountains. Having just walked the distance, I can personally attest to the state’s bounty of natural beauty.
On the CDT, like any other long-distance hike, the scenery is certainly a big part of the journey. But it’s also the human factor—the people you encounter along the way, often serendipitously—that match and often exceed Mother Nature’s beauty in terms of real trail enjoyment and satisfaction. The CDT trail community through New Mexico has been absolutely amazing from the get-go in so many ways large and small. My heart is full up and the hike is only one-quarter done.
Finding Grace on a Mountain
At a 9,000-foot mountain pass deep in the Gila National Forest, where the CDT redline and Gila River Alternate meet, trail angel “Grace” had a table full of goodies and comfy chairs next to her campsite along the forest road. She wasn’t there when “Works Hard” and I arrived, but her note said to help ourselves. And so we did, to chips and chocolate and Gatorade. A couple of miles north. We had the pleasure of meeting Grace in person. She’d gone off on a short day hike. What a joy to talk with her for a short while. We didn’t know it at the time, but Grace would show up again along the ranch road south of Pietown, handing out fresh fruit and cold drinks. And once again up ahead at the fabled Camp Oasis.
An Oasis in the Desert
Speaking of, Camp Oasis was amazing! The operation—and it really is quite a gig—is situated right off the paved Torrean Road out in the badlands south of Cuba. The organizers—the CDT Trail Angels Hiking Group from the Albuquerque area—don’t fool around. They’ve got a big tent, tables and chairs, a generator for power, multiple microwaves, coolers of drinks and food, shelves of snacks, and two porta-potties. The menu was huge and changed daily as volunteers brought in loads of fresh food.
During my visit, the Camp Oasis menu included chicken in peanut sauce, roasted veggies, rice, and salad; chicken, vegetables, and couscous; and meatball sandwiches. We were encouraged to eat as much and as often as we wanted. And we did! Breakfast the next morning was coffee, juice, and big burritos, a really nice sendoff. It must be noted that while I was there (and for two days prior), the winds were blowing a steady 25-30 mph with gusts over 50. But we all made do and had tons of fun just the same. According to Woody, one of the primary organizers of CDT Camp Oasis, “Anybody who’s out hiking 3,000 miles deserves some special treatment. And we see trail magic as a competitive sport.” Clearly, you do, my friends. Well done! Thanks to Woody, Big Bacon, Sprinkles, Jennifer, and Grace.
A Double Trail Magic Evening
A day shy of Ghost Ranch, I descended Mesa Alta and wandered through the aromatic sagebrush to the swift and silty Rio Chama. I’d hoped to collect water for the night from the last water tank before the river, but when I arrived it was surrounded by cows. I continued on to the BLM Whirlpool Campground a few miles ahead, resigned to get water from the river. But when I got there, I noticed a group of kayakers taking their boats out. We got to talking, and the next thing I know they’re giving me a gallon of fresh water. And then two cold beers! Thank you, Dennis, Carol, John, and Nina. You are lovely folks!
After they drove away, I sat on a riverside rock and enjoyed one of the beers. Then as the 7-percent alcohol hit me, I thought I should get my tent up before having the second brew. That’s when a van swung through the campground and pulled up right next to my site. A man jumped out and yelled my way: “Hey, would you like a dinner of steak, potatoes, and beer?” Well, duh! You know it. To earn my keep I gathered firewood when “The Lorax” prepped the food. Soon, CDT hikers Street Fighter, Mikka, and Chew Toy showed up. There was food and cold beer aplenty, though, and we enjoyed a spirited evening talking trail and eating well.
Hot Dog on a Stick
Out of Cuba, the trail climbs high into the Santa National Forest and ultimately the San Pedro Parks Wilderness. Just short of the wilderness is the San Gregorio Reservoir, a beautiful and popular spot easily accessible by a mile walk from the trailhead. As I rounded the lake and headed for Clear Creek, I came upon the Aulbach family from Albuquerque, who were camped nearby. Little Hudson—he was no more than five—was near the shoreline for a thru-hiker to pass by, with a hot dog on a stick in his hand. He excitedly led me back to their campsite and watched as I roasted and ate the delicious dog. I enjoyed not only the hot dog, but a few moments of wonderful conversation with the Aulbachs, mom and dad, Maggie and Steven, and sons Hudson, Travis, and Russell.
Breakfast Beers are the Best
Three miles south of US 64, on a warm and sunny morning, I was wandering along through the beautiful woods and parks at around 10,000 feet. My focus was on getting to the road and into Chama. That’s when I saw the orange tent. Then a truck, and then another. And more tents. Moments later, I walked right into a table chock full of food with a stove going and breakfast cooking. A cold beer (breakfast beer, yay!) was thrust into my hand and we—five CDT hikers and the trail magic peeps—got to talking trail and having some fun in the sun. There were pastries, French toast, eggs, sausage and more beer. And plenty of hearty laughter. Thanks, Kegger (Triple Crowner), Beenie Weeine, Ping, and Jamie. You guys rocked it!
Last but not least… from my snowy campsite at 11,000 feet, I skittered over the frozen snowpack to the New Mexico—Colorado state line. Wow, I was finally here. And here were not only the long-waited boundary license plates tacked on a post, but a bear box full of cold Coors beer, courtesy of the folks at Tumble On Outfitters down in Chama. I grabbed a can and sat on a log in the sun and smiled big time. The difficulty of the hard day before and the cold of last night were forgotten. Darn, that beer tasted good.
My Roving Trail Angel
A special shout-out is due to my lovely wife, Fran, who has been hopscotching along through New Mexico ever since Silver City. She’s driving our truck and camper and is enjoying a grand adventure of her own while supporting my journey on the CDT. Fran has been able to meet me at least once a week and often more frequently than that. She’s also been providing trail magic to lots of other hikers along the way, too. From rides, to trail snacks, to happy words of encouragement, “Mrs. Beerman” and her blue truck with the pair of green and red kayaks on top has become a pretty recognizable figure at trailheads and in trail towns. Thanks, Fran!
